However, how much thought have you put into carrying medical insurance for your cat or dog? Like human health insurance, it’s protection in the event something bad happens, and you can choose the amount of coverage you desire/need. There are a number of insurance carriers for pets. We recommend www.sheltercare.com (866-375-PETS) from personal experience and can attest that they really do follow through and pay their claims (and every policy purchased from our referral earns money for Critters). However, if you are serious about protecting your pet, then do your homework and research all the options so you can choose a plan based on you and your pets needs.
Pet Insurance—Protect your pets health!
Non-surgical pet sterilization: A possible option in the future.
As many people know, sterilizing one’s pet is one of the most important ways to help reduce the unwanted and homeless pet population. However, currently the only option available is surgical sterilization (aka spaying and neutering), which is usually costly—and cost is the number one reason pet owners do not sterilize their pet, especially among the low-income population.
What any people do not know, however, is that ever since birth control has been available to women in the 1960’s, scientists have also been at work trying to discover safe and effective pet contraceptives as well. Unfortunately, the financial support for such research, testing, and production of the drugs hasn’t been available for pets as they have been available for humans. Thus, contraception for dogs has only recently become available, and currently is being used in a few countries such as Mexico and Australia. Although Neutersol (the US contraceptive) is approved by the FDA, it is not currently in production and thus currently not available to use in the United States. There is not currently a contraceptive available for cats.
If you wish to learn more, visit their website at www.acc-d.org. Also follow their facebook page to stay up to date.
Our letter of support is also listed on their website at http://www.acc-d.org/ACCD%20docs/LoS_CrittersCompanion.pdf.
How to get rid of that litter box once and for all!
Do you hate cleaning your cat’s litter box? You may want to consider toilet training your cat! It does take plenty of patience, but it can be done. This is just a basic guide, so if you need more tips or your cat just isn’t getting it, here are a couple of helpful websites that include pictures and video: http://www.karawynn.net, mishacat/toilet.html and http://www.wikihow.com/Toilet-Train-Your-Cat.
Some pet stores such as PetCo and Petsmart even carry kits. Supplies you will need: flushable litter, stacks of newspaper and phone books, and a metal bowl that will fit inside your toilet seat. If you have a “guest” bathroom, you will probably want to use that as your cat’s bathroom (you will see why by the time you get to step four).
Step One: Place your cat’s litter box on the floor next to the toilet. Also start
keeping the toilet seat lid up and the bathroom door open at all times.
Step Two: A day or two later, when your cat seems to be comfortable with the
new location of the litter box, start raising the box by placing newspapers or magazinesunder it so you raise it about an inch. Continue to raise the box by one inch every day. After about a week, you can start raising the box twice a day, and you will probably want to start using phone books and sturdy boxes.
Step Three: Once the litter box is level with the toilet, slowly move the litter box onto the toilet seat, about aninch or two at a time (twice a day) until the litter box is completely on top of the toilet seat.
Step Four: Get rid of the litter box! Place the metal bowl underneath the toilet
seat, making sure it is secure and won’t move. Put two inches of litter in the bowl. Be in the bathroom the first time your cat uses the toilet, to make sure there are no mishaps.
Step Five: Slowly reduce the amount of litter until there is no litter left, and
scoop out any waste every time your cat uses the toilet, as well.
Step Six: Once there is no more litter and your cat is always using the toilet, remove the bowl. Your cat is now toilet trained! The only thing you will need to do is flush the toilet after she goes.
SoftPaws: A Humane Alternative to Declawing

Once upon a time, cat owners wouldn’t think twice about declawing their pet cat to save their furniture. However, in recent years the fact that declawing is a very painful procedure has become more well-known, many caring pet owners have wanted a humane alternative as a result. This, coupled with the fact that many animal rescues do not allow declawing of their adopted pets, has caused cat owners to look for other solutions.
Fortunately, there is a great product called SoftPaws (also known as Soft Claws). SoftPaws are vinyl nail caps that fit over cats paws after they are trimmed. They are attached with a “super glue” type adhesive and stay on for about 6 weeks at a time. SoftPaws are available in clear and a multitude of colors for a stylish look. SoftPaws are easy to apply. If one can clip their cat’s nails, they can also apply the SoftPaws.
SoftPaws are very safe and effective. They are also great when a pet has allergies, as these will prevent damage from excessive scratching. Also check out the SoftPaws website at www.softpaws.com for more information and photogallery!
Our blog has moved to wordpress.com!
Welcome to our WordPress.com blog! After experimenting with several blog sites, we have been most impressed with the wordpress blogs we have seen, so here we are! We will be moving our posts here, as well, so enjoy!
EAR MITES, A COMMON EAR PROBLEM FOR CATS
Does your cat constantly scratch it’s ears or shake it’s head? After examining your cats ears, are they rather dirty? Your cat could have ear mites. Of course, this diagnosis will need to be confirmed by your vet, who can then treat the mites with medication after a thorough cleaning. While you can clean your cats ears as well, it is still vitally important for your cat to see the vet for the treatment, especially since ear mites do not go away after a simple cleaning, are contagious and all cats in a household will usually need to be treated with an ear mite treatment that will usually be given weekly for 6-8 weeks.
Once the ear has been treated, you will also need to make sure that the home does not have any remaining mites that can re-infest your cat(s). According to Hill’s Science Diet, additional measures to ensure all ear mites are gone are to use flea treatments for both your cats and your home to kill any mites that are habituating outside your pets ears. Since some flea products can be harmful, consult with your vet about which products would be best to use.
Once the mites are gone, be sure to continue an ear cleaning regimen. That will help prevent future ear problems, but if a problem does develop you will be able to see it right away. Your vet can recommend a good ear cleaning product and give instruction on when and how to clean your cat’s ears.